Articles

Kidding

POST-KIDDING CARE OF THE DOE

The new kids have been delivered. In the excitement over these beautiful new babies do not forget that mom needs some attention.

Give the new mom and kids a private area. A quiet, draft-free stall is perfect for mom and kids to bond. If the new mother is sharing a stall with another doe, partition off an area with straw bales or fencing panels.

During cold weather offer the doe a bucket of warm water or warm molasses water. Does in labor lose a lot of body heat if the weather is cold. A warm drink and a heat lamp will help replace the heat the doe lost delivering those kids.

Put the doe on antibiotics if there was any intervention. Penicillin is a good antibiotic to start. Give 1cc per 10# body weight once or twice a day subcutaneously for 5 days. Penicillin is inexpensive, does not depress the rumen, and is relatively painless to give. If the doe runs a fever or appears depressed, she should be seen by a veterinarian who may prescribe another antibiotic.

Treat the pain. Does differ in their ability to handle pain. Poor labor, poor mothering, and poor appetite can all be due to pain. Banamine is an excellent pain killer and has the additional benefit of increasing the appetite. It is a prescription drug. A 5 grain aspirin will help with post-delivery pain also.

Strip the teats or milk out the udder. Stripping the teats removes the plug present in the teat canal and the odor of milk helps the kid find the teat. Kids are reluctant to nurse an udder that is tight and engorged with milk. Milk out enough to make the udder softer.

Leave the kids with the new mom if she is to nurse them. Many first-time moms are reluctant with new kids. If she refuses to nurse them, milk her out and feed the kids with a bottle or hold her so the kids can nurse themselves. Within 48 hours most does are eagerly caring for their newborns. Taking the kids away will almost certainly result in bottle babies.

Try to determine if the doe passes the placenta(s). Eating the placenta is a function of keeping the kidding area clean rather than a nutritional benefit to the doe. If a veterinarian has attended the kidding, he/she may prescribe oxytocin to help shrink the uterus and expel the placenta.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2003)

BUCKET PROBLEMS

Providing a safe source of water in the kidding pen can be a concern. The new mom must have easy access to water. But care must be taken so that her new kids cannon fall into the container and drown. Filling the bucket half way is one suggestion. If a kid were to fall in the bucket, the water is not deep enough to drown it. However many curious kids may be drawn to a half-full bucket. Hanging the bucket high enough so that the kids cannon gain access is another suggestion. But many kids actually start drinking water at a very early age. The immature rumen of the newborn needs water to begin to function properly. A short bucket (less than the height of a kid) kept full to the brim may be a solution to the problem. The water is not deep enough to drown a kid. Curious kids investigating the bucket discover the water without having to venture into the bucket. And both the new mom and her kids have access to water.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2002)

THE UDDER KNOWS

Through hormone feedback from the ovaries and developing fetuses,the udder knows how much milk will be needed. Amazingly the udder knows that triplets or quads are going to need more milk than a set of twins or a single. And more amazing is that the udder knows that greedy little bucklings will need more milk than doe kids.

The udder of a pregnant doe can give some insight into the number and sex of the kids she is carrying. A doe that appears to be carrying twins or has been ultrasounded with twins and has a large udder is most likely carrying at least one buckling. The more bucklings the bigger the udder. Even does carrying a single buck will have a larger udder than a doe carrying a single doe kid. Does carrying three or more kids will have a large udder that develops early in the pregnancy. These does commonly appear to be further along in the pregnancy than they actually are. The more kids, the bigger the udder.

Of course variations occur. General health, age, and familial tendencies all play a part in the size and development of the udder. But also playing a part are the number and sex of the fetuses.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

DIARRHEA IN KIDS

Diarrhea in kids under 6 weeks of age is commonly caused by bacteria not parasites. An upset in the normal gut flora can be caused by overeating or eating the wrong things when first starting to browse and graze outside. These kids are essentially simple-stomached animals, their rumen's have not developed yet. A 3 to 5 day course of penicillin, given at the rate of 1 cc per 10#, will clear up most cases of diarrhea. Of course, a fecal should be checked for parasites to make sure that they are not complicating the diarrhea.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

HEAT LAMPS

Heat lamps are a real aid during the colder winter months to help dry off kids and warm mom up after an exhausting labor. Be sure they are used safely. Use extension cords made for such purposes and make sure that the lamp cannot slip into the bedding. Once the new kids are dried off and their tummies filled with colostrum, heat lamps are generally no longer needed.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

Y2K KIDDING COMPLIANT

For many breeders it has been several months since the last batch of kids arrived. But spring is fast approaching and it won't be long until the spring kid crop hits the ground. Be sure you are ready. Dust off your kidding supplies, check your supply of drugs, and go over the barn to make sure that you are not looking or needing something at midnight during a delivery. It is easy to forget what you have and where you put it.

Go through your kidding kit and replace supplies that are depleted. Is there enough lubricant, strong tincture of iodine and antibacterial soap? Are the towels clean and rinsed free of any detergent or fabric softener?

Order a lamb or piglet puller if you don't have one. Remember that you were going to do it last fall. Did you?

Make sure your heat lamp works to help dry off new kids if it is cold. Just because it worked a few months ago does not mean it works now.

Are your drug supplies adequate? BoSe and penicillin are two drugs that you may need. Make sure you have enough.

Clean up the kidding pen so that there is a nice clean place to pop your new arrivals when they get there.

Make sure you still have some molasses (for mom) and some evaporated goats milk, bottles and nipples (for hungry kids). Don't depend on the neighborhood grocery store to be open when that first set of kids arrives. You may want to have some propylene glycol on hand for treating ketosis. It commonly comes in a gallon which can be shared with other breeders.

Don't wait until your first doe is in labor to start looking for your kidding supplies. It is much easier to plan ahead and know that supplies are adequate and within easy reach if needed.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2000)

139 DAYS & COUNTING

How far along in the pregnancy does a doe have to be before the kids will survive if she should go into labor? The definitive day seems to be day 139. Some variations will occur. Multiples of three or more may be so tiny that they won't survive. large single kids may survive if delivered a day or two earlier. But on the whole, kids born before 139 days gestation die soon after birth if born alive and those carried 139 days or more can be expected to survive.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

IMPACTED MECONIUM

By 24 hours of age, newborn kids should be passing a dark yellow stool. If not, they may not be eating enough or, more commonly, the black feces in the bowel at birth (meconium) may be difficult to pass. This is more of a problem with small or weak kids. Use a 6 cc syringe (without a needle) to give an enema of 3 to 5 cc of warm water. Never give oil orally (especially mineral oil) to relieve constipation. Oil had little taste or feel in the mouth and is easily inhaled. resulting in a fatal foreign-body pneumonia.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

ALMOST PYGMY MILK

1 can evaporated goat milk + 1 can water

or

1 quart pasteurized goat's milk

Combine with 1/2 cup cream. Feed at the rate of 1 oz. per 1/4 pound body weight per day divided into 3 or 4 feedings. Increase with age not to exceed 20-24 oz. per day.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

KETOSIS ALERT

Ketosis can occur just at kidding time and can be difficult to distinguish from normal labor. Signs of ketosis are those associated with low blood glucose (sugar). They include: subnormal body temperature, failure to labor well, lack of normal mothering instincts (ignores birth fluids or kids), separation, and dull, depressed appearance. Factors that put a doe at risk for ketosis are: carrying 3 or more fetuses, ack of exercise, overweight, and aged does with multiple fetuses. Does that fit into one or more of these categories should be watched by th owner for signs of ketosis. Ketosis is a very treatable condition if recognized. It can be fatal if left untreated. Sugar or molasses will give short term boost in blood sugar. Propylene glycol (available at most feed outlets) will give longer, more sustained elevation in blood glucose.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

IODINE WITH CARE

Whether you deliver the kid onto a clean towel or just find it running around the pen, always make sure you thoroughly iodine the navel. Although both "tamed" iodine or strong tincture of iodine can be used, the strong tincture has advantages. It causes the umbilical cord to dry up and shrink much faster. Use a small container with a tight fitting lid to hold the iodine. The container opening should be slightly larger than a large umbilical cord. Hold the kid in an upright position. Position the umbilicus into the container and bring the container up tight against the body wall. Tip the kid and container upside down and back upright. This insures the entire length of the umbilicus is disinfected.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 1999)

SUPPLEMENTAL FEEDING

Two is company, three is a problem, and four is a real crowd when kids are nursing their dam. Triplets and quadruplets are not uncommon in pygmy goats. But these multiple births may produce problems when it comes to making sure that all the kids get enough to eat. Knowing when to supplement is critical for the survival of all the kids. Triplets that consist of all does or two does and a buck will commonly get by without supplemental feeding if the doe has enough milk. If one of the kids is smaller or two of the triplets are bucks, then the kids need to be watched carefully. One or more kids in a set of quadruplets commonly will need more milk than it is getting from mom. If you think that one or more of the kids will need extra help, try feeding right away. If all the kids seem to be getting enough food, watch the group carefully for the first week to ten days. Buck kids commonly get larger greedier and stronger than doe kids by this time.

Kids that are not getting enough milk will appear to be hungry all the time. Instead of playing when mom is through feeding, they will be trying to get more to eat. When the other kids are off exercising, hungry kids will stick by mom and try to eat the instant they get a chance. Hungry kids don't have as much energy for the usual play and will hang back from the others.

Preemie baby nipples with the hole made a little larger work well for feeding kids. Since pygmy milk is higher in fat than dairy goat milk, add ½ cup cream to a quart of pasteurized goats milk. This seems to satisfy the kids for a longer period. Usually twice a day feeding is sufficient if the kid is getting some milk from mom. With quadruplets, it may be easier just to take a bottle out twice a day and feed any of the kids that are hungry. If the kid does not nurse at all from mom, then you may want to increase its feedings to four times a day. After about six weeks of age, cows milk with the added cream can be substituted for goats milk.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 1997)

COLOSTRUM NEEDS

Pygmy goat kids are born with a fairly low blood glucose level and very little immunity to anything around them. They need a rich source of energy and immune protection. Early feeding of colostrum provides both. Kids need colostrum early, preferably the first hour after birth. And they need a sufficient amount - about 2 oz. per pound body weight per day. This raises their blood glucose level and provides antibodies to the world around them. Colostrum contains higher levels of total protein, milk solids, lactose, globulins (antibody), and fat than normal milk. Kids are able to absorb colostral antibody for about 2 days.

Getting colostrum early and enough of it is not a problem if the kid is healthy and with the dam. But either for health problems with the dam (C-Section or death of the dam) or disease concerns (CAE, Johnes, etc.) the kids may not be kept with the dam. It is still vital that these kids get sufficient colostrum. Freezing colostrum from a healthy doe is an excellent source of colostrum for these kids. While antibody levels fall sharply when refrigerated more than 48 hours, antibody levels in frozen colostrum remain high for 13 months. Colostrum substitutes made from homemade recipes usually supply sufficient energy but no antibody protection and should be avoided. There are several commercial colostrum substitutes on the market that claim to provide good-antibody levels, but this is debatable. Colostrum can be pasteurized although this is difficult. It must be held at 132.8 degrees for 60 minutes. Cow colostrum can be fed. But not enough research has been done on disease transmission and possible antibody induced hemolytic anemia.

Planning ahead can prevent a crisis during the kidding season. Freeze colostrum from healthy does, especially those with a single kid. If the doe has kidding difficulties and may need a C-Section, milk out enough colostrum before you go to the veterinarian to feed the kids. If you don't need it, it can be frozen for future use. If you are facing a herd disease problem that requires kids to be removed from the dam at birth, get together with your veterinarian and decide the best way to provide these kids with colostrum.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 1997)

KIDDING HELP

Whether you breed one doe or a hundred, having a kid or piglet puller on hand at kidding time may be invaluable. Get one and keep it on hand even if you are just learning to use one. It is amazing how many veterinarians do not have the proper equipment for the small pygmy goats. Caprine Supply carries a kid puller for $11.95 in the 1999 catalog (913-585-1191 or FAX 913-585-1140). Piglet puller is available from Nasco Catalog for $6.50 (1-800-558-9595). Either is reasonably priced. If you are ordering yourself one, order an extra for the next raffle table at a goat show.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 1999)

GOOD IDEA: Tie a bright piece of yarn or string to your piglet puller. Because it is fairly small, it's easy to lose in the straw. The bright color will make it easy to find.

-----From Lynette Baumfalk (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 1999)

GESTATION TIMES

Most does deliver kids at about day 147. But normal variations are common. Gestation time can vary from 143 to 155 days and still be considered very normal. Expect single kids and doe kids to be carried longer than multiples or buck kids. Some bucks produce kids that are routinely carried longer than 147 days while others produce kids that are delivered at 143 or 144 days. So when planning when that special day will arrive, consider how long the doe has previously carried her kids, any pattern that the buck may have in gestation times, and be prepared to greet kids earlier than planned or wait up to an extra week for the kids to arrive.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 1999) 

Shows

SHOW ENTRIES

To make an easier job for the show committee and also an easier check-in for you, fill out those show forms carefully and accurately. The first few times filling those entries out can be daunting. The following are some things that you should pay special attention to so that when you arrive at the show your goats are in the right classes, their names are spelled correctly, and you sent the proper monies.

Print or type the entry legibly. The show committee may not be familiar with your goats names. You want the names printed correctly in the program. Be sure you include the herd name of the goat.

Send the correct amount of the entry in full. Show expenses can be large and the committee will not want to extend credit for the entry. Each time a goat is entered in a class equals one entry fee. So if you enter a goat for both shows at a double show, the cost would be two entries.

Make sure the goat is in the correct class. It is up to the exhibitor to have the goat correctly entered. You don't want to be disqualified because the goat was shown in the wrong age group.

Showmanship classes want the name of the showman not the goat since it is the showman being judged.

Don't hesitate to contact the show committee if you have a question about the entry. It is much easier to resolve a problem ahead of time rather than waiting until check-in. And if you know that you are bringing a late entry, contacting the show committee ahead of time will speed check-in.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 2004)

PACKING FOR A SHOW

Be prepared when going to a show. Keeping a list of what to take to the show really helps. I keep mine on the computer and print out the list before each show. And once the item is packed, I cross it off the list. Here are some things that you may want to include on the show list:

Papers

Entry information

Collars and leads

Grooming supplies

Feed pans and water buckets

Salt

Hay and feed

Tarps

Plastic tie downs for a variety of jobs.

Plastic mesh available at garden centers for keeping kids confined to the pen

Basic medical kit

Molasses or Kool-Aid to flavor water or some water from home

After a few shows, each breeder develops a list of things that are necessary to bring.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2002)

GETTING READY FOR THE SHOW SEASON

It won't be long until the show season is here. And now is the time to get organized and ready for the shows.

Be sure that any goats over 6 months of age are either tattooed or microchipped before an NPGA show. Everyone is busy at the show so take care of identifying the goats before you arrive. Never assume that the goat may not win and therefore does not need identification. It is a real loss for the exhibitor and the judge if the Grand Champion is not identified. Some fairs will want all the goats, no matter what age, to be identified. So read all the information provided by the fair to make sure that you are in compliance with their regulations. The new Federal Scrapie Eradication Program requires that all goats that are transported across state lines or exhibited have identification.

Treat your goats for lice as a precaution before any show. Most shows will inspect goats before they are allowed in the barn. For a complete example of a health examination, check out the WPGC website. Goats that have lice will be turned away.

Make sure that your papers are in order before bringing them to the show. Register kids well in advance of the show to make sure that the registration papers are received with time to spare. Most shows will not allow kids that can be registered to be shown in the "unregistered" classes simply because the owner has not gotten them registered yet.

Do not bring sick goats to a show. Shows are a stress for even the most "show seasoned" goat. And stress makes any disease condition worse. Not to mention that sick goats will expose others at the show.

Read the entry form carefully for arrival and departure times. Most shows will want to be contacted if you will be arriving at a time other than those specified. Do not assume that there will be someone there when you arrive.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2002)

ATTENDING A GOAT SHOW

The show season is starting! If you're an experienced exhibitor, you'll be gathering your equipment and doing the things that have worked for you in preparing for past shows. If you're still new at attending shows, you're probably starting to worry about what you need to do and what to expect at the shows. All of us were novices at one time and can remember the excitement and, yes, the stress of our first shows. Most other exhibitors are willing to help if they can - so never hesitate to ask questions or to ask someone for help. If you can't find anyone or you're hesitant to approach someone you don't know, check with the people working at ringside. They're there to see that things run smoothly and that everyone has a good time. The following information should answer many of your questions if you're new and will serve as reminders to the rest of us:

Bathe your bucks no more than a day or two before the show and brush them good just before they go into the ring. Does can also be bathed before the show - at a minimum they should be sponged off and well brushed. The judge will appreciate handling clean goats and your goats will look better if they're well groomed.

Check your goats just before you leave for the show. Don't take goats that are sick or have lice. They won't pass the health check at the show and won't be allowed to show anyway, so you might as well leave them home.

Get to the show grounds early so you'll have enough time to check in and care for your goats before the show begins.

Use bright blue plastic tarps (available at your local hardware store) around the inside of your pen to provide shelter from the weather (cold, wind, rain, and sun). They're also good to separate bucks from other bucks or from does. You can use string, clamps, or plastic ties to secure the tarps to your pen.

Take your own food, water buckets, collars, and leads since these are not furnished at goat shows. Take your own wire or netting to put around the inside of your pens if you're taking young kids. Most nurseries carry a plastic netting that can be used over and over and is perfect for this purpose.

Be friendly, courteous, and helpful to other exhibitors. This is especially appreciated when people are unloading their goats and getting goats in or out of their pens.

Be at ringside and ready to go in as soon as your class is called. If you have back-to-back classes, have someone hold your next goat at ringside for you. If you have to go to your pen, hurry back to the show ring - don't make everyone stand around and wait unnecessarily.

Keep your eye on the judge during the class so you can understand and follow his/her directions.

Leave plenty of room between your goat and the goats on either side.

Don't hit your goat or drag it around the ring. Don't call your goat by name in the ring.

If you want more details about the reasons your goat placed as it did, ask the judge immediately after the class. Don't wait until after the show because the judge probably won't remember the details.

Show good sportsmanship by clapping and/or cheering for the class winners as well as the champions.

MOST IMPORTANT - RELAX AND HAVE FUN! -----By Linda Carpenter (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1996)

ODOR CONTROL

A new product called Febreeze is touted by the manufacturer to eliminate odor in fabrics. It is sprayed on the fabric and, when dry, the odor is eliminated. This may be a real boon to those showing or handling bucks. It is available in the laundry section of most grocery stores. Febreeze comes in three sizes, the smallest of which would tuck nicely into the tack box. Wonder if it works on hands?

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

ALERT: When using "Febreeze" to deodorize clothing after handling bucks, be sure to use as directed and with care. The product is not meant to deodorize anything but fabrics. Do not use around birds. And if using on a fabric that animals come in contact with, such as bedding, be sure to wash after treatment. As with any product, read the instructions carefully and use as directed.

DID SOMEONE MENTION ODOR ON HANDS?

Fresh Fingers is a small stainless steel alloy bar that is purported to eliminate odors on hands. The bar is rubbed between wet hands much like a bar of soap. This product is available at many kitchen shops and garlic stands at fairs. The cost is about $5.00. This would make an excellent addition to the tack box of anyone showing or handling bucks.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

LOUSE DUST

When attending a show, it's always a good idea to bring along louse dust to treat goats before going home. Not need to take home any unwanted critters. A small plastic cheese shaker works well. It's small enough to easily pack and the holes are large enough that the louse dust comes out easily when opened.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

SHOW SUPPLIES

If you are planning on attending very many shows this year, especially out of your vicinity, it's a good idea to put together a kid with emergency supplies you may need while at the show. An inexpensive plastic box that can be tucked away anywhere works well. The following is a list of things that can be included. All can be used around the house or barn when the show season is over.

Thermometer

Penicillin & syringes

Aspirin (15 gr. aspirin per 60#)

Milk of Magnesia to treat diarrhea

Louse dust

Band-Aids (for humans)

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

TATTOO REMINDER

Goats over six months old must be tattooed in order to record a Grand Championship win with N.P.G.A. Help yourself remember to tattoo your goats before a show - not after when it may be too late! As soon as you get the goat's original registration certificate from NPGA, note the "status" of the tattoo right on the registration certificate before you put it with the rest of your goat records. Using a pencil, indicate 'not tattooed" beside the Left Tattoo shown on the registration. That way, you'll be reminded that the goat needs to be tattooed when you fill out the entry form for an upcoming show if it'll be over 6 months old by the date of the show. You can also indicate 'ears" or 'tail" once the goat has been tattooed and you can note if (and when) you had to re-tattoo. Just be sure to use a pencil - not ink - so you can erase your notes if you need to.

-----By Linda Carpenter (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 1996)

BUCK URINE ON FRONT LEGS

A survey at a recent show revealed that most adult bucks urinate on their left front leg much more often than their right front leg. While this may seem to be just another bit of trivia, it can be put to good use when working with or showing a buck. There is much less chance of getting "sprayed" when standing on the right side of the buck. And Judges take heed - when reaching for the front leg of the Grand Champion buck to measure the cannon bone, chose the right front leg over the left. This left-sided phenomenon in our bucks has its basis in the anatomy of the goat. The large fluid and gas filled rumen lies on the left side of the abdomen, while the right side contains much smaller abdominal structures. It is much easier for the buck to bend or twist to the right when directing a stream of urine. This in turn directs that stream of urine towards the left front leg.

-----By Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 1997)

Health

COCCIDIOSIS

Coccidiosis is a major cause of diarrhea, poor growth, and death in kids. Kids become infected the first few weeks of life with the highest incidence of disease between 4 and 7 weeks. Coccidia are protozoan parasites. They are quite host specific and do not cross between species. Kids become infected by ingesting food, bedding, or water contaminated with oocysts. These oocysts rapidly undergo maturation, multiply, and enter the cells lining the intestine. These forms in the intestinal cells break from the disrupted cells and can multiply further infecting even more cells. Eventually oocysts are formed which pass out of the intestine and contaminate the environment. Because the infected intestinal cells are destroyed, serious injury to the digestive tract can occur. Eventually the kid becomes immune to the organisms. But damage to the digestive tract can be severe enough to cause permanent problems or even death. And stress factors such as weaning, changes in diet, or moving can relax the immunity and predispose the kids to the development of clinical disease.

Control of Coccidiosis must be three pronged. First, the infection itself needs to be treated – most commonly with one of the sulfa drugs. Most are not effective in severe cases. Second, kids must be prevented from reinfection. Kids should be moved from contaminated pastures or pens. Measures should be taken to prevent fecal contamination of food and water. Decoquinate (Deccox) can be mixed in the salt or food. While Deccox does not treat an active infection, the drug will prevent reinfection by disrupting the organism early in the life cycle. New additions to the herd should be tested for coccidia and treated if needed. Third, frequent fecal exams should be done. One or two pellets from several kids will provide information on the severity of the infection in the herd. Coccidiosis is a disease that can build up and be life-threatening without preliminary signs.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 2004)

THE SCOOP ON POOP

Knowing the what the normal bowel movements of your goats should look like can help diagnose disease problems early. Kids are born with a thick, black stool in their bowel called "meconium". This black stool should be passed within the first 24 hours after birth. Watch kids carefully to make sure this happens. Retained meconium can make the new kid very sick. If you suspect that the meconium has not passed, give the kid a warm water enema with a 3cc syringe (needle removed). Once the meconium has passed, the stools should be yellow/orange in color as the diet is mainly milk. As the kid nibbles on other foods and its digestive tract matures, the bowel movements gradually become pelleted. By 2 to 3 weeks, the stool begins to resemble that of an adult only with smaller pellets. Diarrhea problems in young kids are usually caused by bacteria and should be treated with antibiotics. Normal adult bowel movements should be separate pellets. Feeding on lush pastures will cause the stool to be less formed. Stools that resemble those of a dog are abnormal and may indicate parasitism or over feeding of concentrates. Grain is rarely seen in the feces unless the goat is on a high grain ration or has rumen or dental disease. A number of conditions can cause more liquid diarrhea. The most common is bacterial. Parasitism and over feeding concentrates are also common causes of diarrhea. Watching for abnormal bowel movements can detect problems early. And having a microscopic fecal examination done by your veterinarian can keep ahead of parasitic disease.

WINTER IS ON THE WAY

You don't need a calendar to know that summer has lost its grip and winter is on the way. The days are growing progressively shorter, leaves are starting to turn color before leaving the trees, the bucks are ready for the girls, and the does are starting to come into strong heats. Check out the following suggestions to help make winter a little easier for you and your goats.

Tank deicer. Deicers come in different sizes depending on the size of your water tank. They are meant to start heating when the water temperature drops below 40 degrees. Having water available at all times is essential to prevention of kidney and bladder stones.

Ammonia prevention. Feed stores carry products now that when spread under the bedding, prevent some of the ammonia build-up that comes with winter. Once winter comes goats are no longer spending days out in the pasture. And when the rain comes, they are in the bam 24/7. And this means a larger amount of urine in the bam which breaks down into ammonia. Ammonia build-up is a leading cause of pneumonia in the winter. Sit down where the goats spend most of their time to check for the smell of ammonia.

Water heaters. During our coldest days, it is nice to be able to provide a warm drink of water or de-ice some of the water troughs. Bucket heaters are available from feed stores or catalogs that will heat 5 gallons in just a few minutes. On a budget? A used coffee percolator with the basket removed, heats water in just a few minutes. Having something to heat water at the bam beats lugging it from the house.

Wind blocks. Goats can stand cold temperatures if they are able to get away from drafts and wind. Check which way the worst winter winds come from in your area, and consider decreasing the amount of draft that comes into your bam with a piece of plywood. A door opening of 4 feet will be much less drafty if narrowed to 2 feet. Remember the goats still need air circulation - just reduce the amount of draft on their level.

Louse control. Lice are more of a problem when the goats are in closer proximity in the winter months and under more stress due to the weather. Louse dusts will work for mild infestations if used often. For severe louse infestations or for longer louse control than a dust can provide, consider using Frontline spray. Frontline spray is a small animal product for dogs and cats but is safe for goats. It is more expensive than dusts but gives much longer protection.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, November/December 2003)

COMMON CONVERSIONS

Below is a list of common measurements and what they are equal to.

1 teaspoon

5 ccs or 5mls

1 tablespoon

3 teaspoons or 15 ccs or 15 mls

1 ounce

2 tablespoons or 30 ccs or 30mls

1 cup

8 ounces or 16 tablespoons or 240 mls

1 pint

16 ounces or 480 mls

1 gallon

4 quarts or 8 pints

1 pound

0.45 kilograms

1 kilogram

2.2 pounds

Most of us weigh things in pounds. Many of the products that we use expect the weight to be in kilograms. If you know how much an animal weighs in pounds, to find out how many kilograms that is divide the weight in pounds by 2.2 A 66# goat would weight 30 kilograms. Conversely if you know something weighs 30 kilograms, then to fid the weight in pounds you multiply by 2.2

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2003)

SCRAPIE

Remember that the new Federal Scrapie Eradication Program is still in effect. To move goats interstate, either for a show or for sale, you must have a Scrapie Premise ID number for your farm. The goat must be properly identified with one of the federally approved means of identification which includes a legible tattoo or a microchip and accompanying registration papers. The following are the numbers for some of the State Veterinarian Offices in the area.

Oregon - 503-986-4680 Washington - 360-902-1878 Idaho - 208-332-8540 California - 916-654-1447

Contact the state Veterinarian's Office or your own veterinarian to get information on complying with the program. Remember that goats traveling from one state into another may also need a Certificate of Veterinary Inspection stating that the goat is in good health and free from communicable diseases.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2003)

BEWARE FOOTWEAR

Walk around the show ring a few times and you will find that you have picked up a considerable amount of fecal material on your shoes left by the goats being shown. And try as you may, it is impossible to avoid it. And the amount of fecal material in the ring increases as the show goes on and more goats decide to eliminate in the ring. As an experiment, I ran a fecal examination on some of the goat feces that had collected on the bottom of my shoes. I was surprised to find a number of internal parasites including several species of worms and coccidia not to mention any of the diseases that can be transmitted through the feces. While health checks are routinely done at shows, they do not check the goats for a potential contagious condition - internal parasites. And many of thhese parasites can go from the infected goat to the show ring to exhibitor's shoes to exhibitor's goats. To help protect your goats at our "goat get togethers', change footwear after showing your goats. Wear shoes in the ring that can be easily cleaned or disinfected after the show.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2003)

IT'S THAT TIME OF YEAR

Fall is here and winter is on the way. Time to get the goats ready for the long, wet winter and breeding season. A little extra maintenance now will get the goats through the winter in better shape and increase the numbers of beautiful kids in the spring. Winter brings bad weather, short days, and closer confinement. All can be stressful to the herd. Good management now can reduce the toll that these stresses have on your goats.

Make sure the entire herd is receiving adequate selenium. Our area of the northwest is so selenium deficient, that the goats require additional selenium even if they are on trace mineral salt that contains selenium. Breeding bucks can benefit from additional selenium both in increased libido and sperm count. Make sure breeding does receive additional selenium before exposure to the buck.

With the show season almost over, make sure that the entire herd is treated for lice. Those long, dark days of winter are ideal for a louse build up in the herd. Lice are easy to bring home from shows or fairs. And if left untreated, these parasites can become a problem in the entire herd. While lice usually cause itching and hair loss, susceptible goats (the very young, elderly, or sick) can have severe enough infestations to cause anemia. Fall is also a good time to treat internal parasites. To find out what parasites you are dealing with and how heavy the parasite load is, take a representative fecal sample in to your veterinarian. Young stock are the most susceptible so be sure to include them in your sample.

While the goat is in the stand getting additional selenium, worming, and delousing, make sure those feet are trimmed. Now that the rainy season is here, those feet are much easier to trim. But with worsening weather and more time in the barn, those feed will need to be trimmed more often. Well trimmed feet are more resistant to "foot rot" and hoof-wall separations. Bucks need feet in good shape to do their work. And breeding does need feet that are well-trimmed and comfortable as they become heavier during pregnancy.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, November/December 2002)

DRUG USE IN GOATS

Many drugs are not approved for use in goats. Breeders that use these drugs are using them at their own risk if the drug was not prescribed by a veterinarian. Be careful using a drug or product that someone at a show or on the internet recommends. Responsibility for any adverse reactions will not be assumed by the drug company.

Good news. Naxcel (ceftiofur) is now labeled fro use in the treatment of goat pneumonia. The dosage for dairy or meat goats is 0.5 to 1.0 mg/lb given intramuscularly once a day for up to 5 days. At this dose neither a milk discard or a preslaughter withdrawal period is required. Naxcel is a prescription product marketed by Pharmacia.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 2002)

FOOT AND MOUTH DISEASE

Foot and mouth disease (FMD) is a highly contagious viral disease of cloven-hoofed animals - cattle, hogs, sheep, and goats - although other animals can carry the disease. The disease has gained notoriety lately due to the outbreak in Britain and neighboring European countries. The last reported case of the disease in the United States was in 1929. Since then the United States has remained free of FMD. As the name would indicate, the main symptoms of FMD are painful vesicles of the feet and inside of mouth. Goats commonly have subclinical infections but can transmit the disease to other species. At this time FMD is not a threat to livestock in this country.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2001)

WINTERIZE NOW

With winter just around the corner, it is time to get the goats and barn ready for the long wet winter. Now is a good time to run a fecal on the young stock to check for parasites after a summer on pasture and the show season. Worm and treat parasites now to prevent build up during the close confinement and stress of winter. Be sure that all stock is current on BoSe. And while you have the goats in the stand for BoSe injections, trim their feet and treat for lice. Winter's confinement and dark days bring an increase in the louse population. And with little exercise on hard ground, hooves need to be trimmed more often. Check into buying a tank or bucket heater to de-ice the water supply should our temperatures plunge below freezing. Block drafts in the barn. Goats do well in cold weather as long as they are healthy, dry, and draft free.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, November/December 2000)

NORMAL PYGMY VALUES

Rectal Temperature: 101.5-103.5 degrees

Pulse: 60-80/minute

Resting respiration: 15-30/minute

Rumen Contractions: 1-4/minute

Estrus Cycle: 17-24 days

Length of cycle: 12-36 hours

Gestation: 145-152 days

Water Consumption: 1/2 gallon/day

Urine Output (adult): 1 1/2 pints/day

About 1/3 of the goats day is spend eating, 1/3 of the day ruminating (chewing cud), and the remaining 1/3 sleeping. The natural daily rhythm causes the temperature to rise about one degree from morning to afternoon.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

SELENIUM ABCs

Most breeders in this area are familiar with the trace mineral selenium and the area's deficiency of selenium in the forage and grain. Western Oregon, western Washington, northern Idaho, and the very northern tip of California are very deficient. The northeastern and southeastern United States are also deficient. This means that 80% of the forage and grain contains less than .05 ppm available selenium. Less than 0.1 ppm is considered deficient. Most of California and Idaho, eastern Oregon, eastern Washington have varying degrees of selenium availability, meaning that 50% of the forage and grain contains more than 0.1 ppm. In the midsection of the United States, 80% of the forage and grain contain more than 0.1 ppm (which is considered adequate). Scattered across the country are some isolated areas where the local vegetation actually accumulates selenium in excess of over 50 ppm. In these areas selenium toxicity can occur. With such variation in the need for selenium across the country, breeders must do some research to find out just what their particular selenium needs are.

Here in western Oregon and Washington, the area is considered very deficient. This means that selenium must be supplemented for our goats to maintain good health and reproduction. Selenium is an antioxidant. It works in synergism with vitamin E. Numerous disorders are associated with a deficiency of selenium in the diet. They include retained placentas, infertility, poor uterine tone, muscular dystrophy (both skeletal and cardiac muscle), and general unthriftiness. All ages of goats are affected. Adults as well as kids should receive regular supplementation.

Selenium supplements in the form of trace mineral salt are available at most farm supply stores. However, the amount of selenium contained in them is controlled by law. This amount of selenium may be adequate for marginally deficient areas, but is not enough to meet the needs of goats in our severely deficient area. Additional selenium needs must be met using an injectable selenium/vitamin E preparation - BoSe or MuSe (Schering-Plough). While approved for sheep and cattle, not goats, injectable selenium can be used as an additional source of selenium in very deficient areas.

Selenium is a trace mineral. Goats need only a very tiny amount. Too much selenium is as harmful as too little. Supplementing the right amount in the diet can be a very delicate balancing act. Forages and grain can be tested for selenium availability. Goats can be tested to determine if they are selenium deficient. But these types of tests are often out of the price range of most breeders. It is important, then, to devise a supplement plan with your veterinarian that best meets the needs of your goats in your particular area. In the Pacific northwest this may mean feeding trace minerals that contain selenium and giving injections of selenium 2 or more times a year. Bucks should receive injectable selenium twice a year, one given prior to breeding season. Breeding does should receive a selenium injection before breeding and once again about one month prior to delivery. Kids should receive a dose at birth and at one month of age. Other stock should be maintained on a twice a year injection schedule. But before instituting any supplementation schedule, check with your veterinarian for advice on type and amount of supplementation.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

BO-SE DOSAGE

In our area we are so selenium deficient that our goats must be supplemented with BoSe injections. Be sure to use the correct dose - it is not on the bottle but rather in the package insert:

1 cc/40# body weight

Remember to take into account the weight increase during pregnancy. A doe that weighed 60# before breeding will weigh considerably more a month before kidding. You need to supply enough selenium for her and her developing fetuses.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 2000)

IT'S THE WATER

During our long, cold, wet winters, water availability for our goats is sometimes taken for granted. When water is constantly falling from the sky in various forms, it may be hard to realize that our barn-bound goats may not be drinking enough. When the weather is hot and dry, we all make an extra effort to make sure that the herd has fresh cool water. But in the winter, diligence is just as important. If the water supply is outside the barn, goats may not venture out for water in the weather is particularly wet and windy. When outside temperatures dip below freezing, water supplies freeze over and become inaccessible.

Certain groups are particularly susceptible to water deprivation. All goats (all ruminants) need a considerable amount of water daily for the large amount of saliva that is produced for rumination. But older animals with marginal kidney function, need even more available water to make sure that their body wastes are eliminated by their kidneys. Lactating does need increased amounts of water to meet the needs of lactation. And male goats (wethers or bucks) need adequate water consumption to insure urinary health. When less water is consumed, the urine becomes more concentrated. Dissolved minerals have a tendency to precipitate out more easily in concentrated urine producing urinary calculi (bladder stones). Just a day or two of decreased water intake can create problems in susceptible groups.

If the water supply is outside the barn, offer a bucket of water on stormy days. Goats are reluctant to venture out when the weather is wet and windy and gladly accept a water source out of the weather. When the temperature dips below freezing, automatic waters do not work and water tanks and buckets freeze over. Tanks and bucket heaters are available from farm suppliers. A tank heater will keep the water temperature above freezing. Be sure the electrical cord is installed to prevent any exposure to the goats. Keeping water buckets clear of ice can be accomplished by removing the ice that has formed (a pancake flipper works well) and adding hot water to the bucket. If the barn does not have a source of hot water, use a bucket warmer or old "perk-type" coffee pot to beat water. Carrying hot water from the house is another alternative. During very cold spells, water tubs and buckets may have to be "de-iced" more than once a day. By attending to the water needs of the goats during our inclement winter weather, complications from decreased water intake and ensuing stress can be eliminated.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 2000)

CHECK FOR PARASITES

Want to do something good for your goats? Take a fecal sample in on random goats at least twice a year. Spring (when new kids are arriving) and fall (just before the breeding season and winter) are two important times to asses the herd's parasite problems. Worms lay eggs and coccidia (single-celled parasites) produce oocysts which pass out of the goat in the feces. They contaminate the environment and perpetuate the parasite. You don't have to check every animal, but kids (under 6 months), pregnant goats, and older animals are most susceptible. Only a few pellets are needed. Samples can be combined such as a group of kids. The sample should be fresh, not over 4 hours old. If you cannot get the sample to your veterinarian right away, then it can be refrigerated for up to 12 hours.

Your veterinarian or a technician will mix the sample with a solution that has a specific gravity that allows the eggs and oocysts to float while the other "stuff" sinks. These eggs are captured on a cover slip and examined under a microscope. The number and type are identified. If you suspect your herd has a lungworm problem, then you should request another type of fecal examination be done also. Lungworm eggs have a "lid" at one end. When mixed with the usual fecal solution, this lid pops off, the egg fills with solution and sinks. A special type of fecal will identify these eggs.

Even if you employ a regular parasite control program, you should be doing periodic fecal checks. Without periodic fecal examinations, there is no way to know how successful the control program is. The medication used may not be eliminating the parasite. Or the goats may be reinfested after treatment from contaminated pastures or pens. Most fecal examinations cost between $10 and $15 dollars. And the expense does add up. But consider the cost of medication, feed, and goats.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

MEDICINE DOSAGES

For those of us that grew up with pounds, teaspoons, and ounces, having to contend with medication with a metric dosage can be almost mind boggling. Some of us guess, others get out a calculator, and the rest just throw up our hands at the very mention of a kilogram. Here are a couple of ways that may help when the dreaded "K" word appears on the label.

A kilogram (Kg) is approximately 2.2 pounds. So if you know the weight in pounds, the weight in kilograms is that weight divided by 2.2. A 65 pound doe will weigh about 30 kilograms (65 divided by 2.2). As an example, the dosage for Panacur suspension is 15 milligrams (mg) per kilogram. If the goat weighs 45 pounds, it will weigh about 20 kilograms. And since you need 15 mg for each kilogram of weight, then the animal should receive 300 mg of Panacur (15 mg times 20 Kg).

If you are dosing several animals, it is sometimes easier to figure out how much medication is needed per pound of body weight rather than figuring each animal's weight in kilograms. By dividing the dosage per kilogram by 2.2, you will have the dosage per pound. Again using the Panacur dosage as an example: 15 mg per kilogram is approximately the same as 7 mg per pound (15 divided by 2.2). A 45 pound animal will need 7 times 45 or 315 mg of Panacur. According to its label, Panacur suspension is formulated to have 100 mg per cc or mi. A 45 pound goat would need 3 cc to get 300 mg of Panacur.

Medications sometimes come with a "package insert" containing important information about the medicine, dosage, problems, etc. These inserts should be read and posted or stored with the medication for future reference. At a minimum, be sure to read the information on the label, which always includes:

Concentration of medication, such as 100 mg or units per cc or ml or oz

Dosage in ml or cc per lb or Kg

Expiration date beyond which the medication should not be used

Contraindications or possible side effects of the medication and what should be done

COMMON CONVERSIONS FOR MEDICINE DOSAGES 1 kilogram = 2.2 pounds
1 teaspoon = 5 milliliters (ml) or 5 cubic centimeters (cc)
1 cc = 1 ml or 15 drops
1 tablespoon = 3 teaspoons or 15 cc
1 ounce = 2 tablespoons or 30 cc
16 ounces = 1 pound or 1 pint or 480 cc

Always be sure to read the label on any medication and follow the dosage given. Some medications are fairly safe and overdosing doesn't harm the goat but it does waste medication. Other medications are toxic if overdosed. Underdosing commonly does little good. Figure the dosage of medication (usually mg) the goat needs for its size according to the label instructions. Then figure how much medication is needed to give the correct dosage.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1996)

SHOTS

Insert and leave an extra large needle (size 18 x ½ inch is good) in the top of your serum bottle so you can use it to withdraw the fluid for individual shots. Just attach the syringe to the inserted large needle, withdraw the necessary amount of serum, detach your shot syringe (leaving large needle in the top of the serum bottle), and attach the smaller shot needle to the shot syringe. This greatly speeds up the time needed to draw shot serum (especially for thick serums like BoSe). It also keeps the shot needle sharp for giving the shot.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, January/February 1996)

ANTITOXIN OR TOXID?

The difference between antitoxin and toxoid can be very confusing. Both are used to protect our goats. But they are very different in their usage. One (toxoid) is used for long team protection. And the other (antitoxin) is used for immediate, short term protection.

Clostridia are a group of bacteria that includes the organisms that cause tetanus and enterotoxemia. They are large bacteria that produce powerful toxins. These toxins are the cause of the symptoms. Clostridia are anaerobes - they colonate and grow in the absence of oxygen on damaged, poorly oxygenated tissue and dead plant material. The toxins they produce attack organs and systems far from the site of the bacteria.

Giving an injection of antitoxin is similar to infusing the animal with antibodies to the toxin. As long as these antibodies persist in the body, the animal is protected against the toxin. Tetanus antitoxin is the most familiar. It is given to animals with no protection (such as kids from unvaccinated does) and to boost immunity in protected animals at dehorning, castration, or after injury. j The protection is immediate but short-lived (2 weeks). Enterotoxemia antitoxin is used mainly to treat animals diagnosed with the disease. Extremely large doses of antitoxin are used to treat animals that have already contracted the disease. Antitoxin ties up the toxin produced by the bacteria.

Toxoid, on the other hand, is used to stimulate the animal's body to produce it's own antibodies (antitoxin) to the specific toxin. This can take several days but will last for several months. Tetanus toxoid and enterotoxemia toxoid are used as part of a routine vaccination schedule. The vaccination causes the animal to produce its own antibodies to the tetanus toxin or enterotoxemia toxin so that animal is protected. Toxoid does no good in the face of active symptoms of disease.

Tetanus toxoid and tetanus antitoxin can be given at the same time. This produces the immediate protection an unvaccinated animal needs and the long term protection it needs for the future. If there is an injury and the animal has not been vaccinated for several months, go ahead and give both the toxoid for lasting protection and the antitoxin for immediate protection.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 1999)

Miscellaneous

THINGS I LEARNED ABOUT SHIPPING GOATS

 I do not often ship goats. But recently I had to ship one of my goats by air and I really learned a lot about getting the job done.

You may have to call several airlines to get the best connections.

When you call for reservations, some airlines will cite national regulations for crates. Goats are in the same category with deer and zebra. Call the local cargo facility you will be using to ship the goat to get their crate requirements. Most will allow a hard-plastic, airline-approved crate.

The airlines require that a water and food container be attached to the front of the crate so that the goat can be fed and watered if there is a delay in the flight. You don't need to put any food or water in them. Send a small bag of hay/grain with the goat.

Expect that the crate will be searched. This may entail removing the goat from the crate. So have a collar and lead on hand.

Most airlines have a minimum and maximum temperature that they will accept animals. If the temperature on ay leg of the trip is below 20 degrees F or above 85 degrees F the animal cannot travel.

Any animal traveling by air must have a certificate of acclimation from a veterinarian specifying the temperature extremes that it can withstand.

Things in the airline industry change quickly. Be sure to check regulations and changes even if you have shipped before.

Many thanks to Colleen LaMarsh and Linda Carpenter for their help in getting my goat off the ground.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2003)

MURPHY'S LAWS FOR GOATS

If you nominate a doe for the futurity, she will have bucklings or not be pregnant.

One week before a show, both doelings and bucklings will have a growth spurt.

If you haven't got a covered vehicle to transport your goats, it will rain even in the middle of summer.

The only goat you bring to a show without a tattoo or microchip will win Grand Champion.

If a buck gets into the doe pasture, both his mother and sister will be in heat.

That expensive outside breeding will result in a single buckling with a white foot or extra teat.

If an outdoor show or event is planned, the weather will be cold, windy, rainy, or all of the above.

If a holiday, important social engagement, or appointment is near a doe's kidding date, that will be the day she kids.

If a friend or neighboring breeder helps with delivering kids or just comes over for oral support, you doe will pick a day that they are gone or are on vacation to kid.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, July/August 2002)

WHICH WAY IS UP?

Terms to describe various parts on areas of the Pygmy goat can be confusing unless you are fluent in Latin. Below are a few of the terms commonly used by books or judges.

Right or Left side: Not really Latin terms and should be very simple but it does confuse a lot of people and judges. Left or Right refers to that side of the goat. It is the same as your left or right side. When viewed from the rear, the left side of the goat is to your left. When viewed from the front, the left side is to your right. The opposite is true for the right side.

Anterior: Anterior refers to the front or towards the front of the animal. "Ante" means in front. The nose is anterior to the eyes.

Posterior: Posterior refers to the rear or towards the rear of the animal. "Post" means after. The tail is posterior rear leg.

Dorsal: Dorsal is near or on the back. "Dorso" means back. Our Pygmy goats have a dorsal stripe.

Ventral: Ventral is near or toward the belly. "Venter" means belly.

Proximal: Proximal refers to being nearest to the center of the body or a point of origin. The elbow is proximal to the foot.

Distal: Distal refers to being farthest from the center of the body or point of origin. Distal is similar to "distant". The foot is distal to the elbow.

Medial: Medial refers to toward the middle or inside. "Medius" means middle. The medial claw of the foot is the inside one.

Lateral: Lateral is toward the side or outside. "Latus" means side. The lateral claw of the foot is the outside one.

Carpus: Carpus means the wrist - part of the front leg. Or in the case of Pygmy goats, the knee (the joint between the foot and elbow) which correlates with the human wrist. The area below the knee and before the foot is the "metacarpus" - meta means after.

Tarsus: The tarsus is part of the rear leg - the hock area. Bones below the hock and before the foot are called "metatarsals".

Many of these terms are hard to remember because they are not used in ordinary conversations. Yet many books, judges, and breeders use them. These terms will help since they are commonly combined with others. So which way is up? If the goat is standing on all four legs, up is dorsal. If the goat is lying on its back, up is ventral. If the goat is lying on its right side, up is left. If the goat is dancing on its hind legs, up is anterior.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 2001)

WPGC & MICROCHIPS

The new reader that the Willamette Pygmy Goat Club has purchased will assure that there will be a microchip reader available at all club shows. The Cascade Pygmy Goat Club and the Evergreen Pygmy Goat Club have also purchased readers that will be available at their shows. These scanners are capable of reading either "AVID" or "Home Again" microchips. This means that owners with goats identified with microchips will be able to have their goat's identification read at any of these club shows. In addition to the readers purchased by clubs, several breeders have also purchased readers. Identification by using microchips is not only available, it is now practical.

Linda Carpenter has been ordering microchips from AVID for members that do not want to purchase the minimum number from the company. Either Linda or the Willamette Pygmy Goat Club will continue to do so as long as there is a need. The cost is $7.50 per plus $.40 postage for each microchip. The minimum number of chips that can be ordered from AVID is 25. The microchip implanting unit does not have an expiration date so the microchips do not have to be implanted immediately. They can be stored for an indefinite period of time. If you do not care to do your own implanting, most small animal veterinary clinics have a microchip system - either "AVID" or "Home Again". If you are going to be implanting many goats yourself or are sharing a minimum AVID order with other breeders, you will want to order directly from AVID. AVID can be contacted by phone at 1-800-336-2843 (contact person, Tom) or through their website at www.avidid.com. "Home Again" chips can be ordered from the Jeffers Pet Catalog for $8.95 each, no minimum. Call 1-800-533-3377 to request a catalog.

For help in learning how to implant microchips, inquire at any club meeting,. Demonstrations of implantation technique will be available at many upcoming shows. The technique is easy and much less traumatic to the goat than tattooing. Dori Lowell at the NPGA Central Office reports that the response to microchip identification has been tremendous. After the microchip identification has been implanted, the number of the microchip must be added to the goat's registration papers. If the goat is being registered (such as a new kid) there is no additional charge to include the microchip number on the registration papers. If you are adding the identification number to the registration papers, the cost is $2.00 for each goat. Dori Lowell has included the new form meant for this purpose in the latest issue of MEMO.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, November/December 1999)

LOOKING FOR MR. RIGHT

It's that time of year. Breeders are trying to decide which bucks to breed to which does to make the best possible kids. Everyone has their own way of deciding which mating will be made in heaven, but there are a few questions that can be asked about the buck which may make the decision easier.

What kind of pedigree does he have? Are there common ancestors in his pedigree and the doe's pedigree? If so, are they goats that are highly desirable as these are the characteristics that the mating will be doubling up on?

What size kids does he make? Even smallish bucks can make large kids. What shape are the kids? Do they have large heads and heavy bone that can make delivery more difficult?

What kind of mother was his dam? Breeding to a buck that comes from a family of poor maternal instincts or a mother that was not able to deliver her kids well, may well cause problems down the line. Make sure that he will be passing good maternal instincts and good kidding ability on to his daughters. Remember bucks have dams as well as sires and his dam accounts for one-half of his genetics.

Does he make an unusually high number of single kids? Bucks with low sperm count or bucks carrying a high number of lethal genes will commonly produce more than their share of single kids. Single kids (especially bucks) are usually larger and more difficult to deliver.

Is his pasture somewhere I want to leave my doe? Check out the facilities and care your doe will be getting while she is left to be bred. If you have any doubts and he is close by, consider a pen breeding.

What are his faults? Every goat has faults. Look him over good. Do not breed to a buck that has the same faults as the doe. Be critical about what you want to improve in the doe and look for a buck with those characteristics.

While a show record is important, it is not the only consideration. Just because the buck is a Grand Champion, does not mean he is right for every doe. Take a look at what else he can offer besides a sterling show career. With a little research and critical analysis of what each doe needs in a buck, your chances of having a match made in heaven next spring really increases.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, November/December 1999)

WHAT'S IN A NAME?

Ever wondered how breeders in our area name their kids? Each seems to have a different system. Some use the letter designation of the year the kid is born. For instance, all the names this year (note: 1999) start with "M". Other breeders have a family name pattern, such as perfumes, cars, movie stars, or candy for certain families of goats. The name of a parent can be incorporated into the name. A common theme may be used for all kids born; such as French names or Indian names. The kid's name can start with the same letter as the doe. Many breeders keep a list and scour the dictionaries, perfume counters, and baby books for that "great" name. Amazingly, names are not knowingly duplicated, giving each kid a unique name that fits with the doe's name, the family pattern, or the herd's theme.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, May/June 1999)

HOT WATER

The last cold snap we had lasted several days and froze waterers and faucets. I took my old "perk type" coffeepot (without its guts) I wasn't using out to the barn. In just a few minutes, I had a pot of hot water to warm buckets or thaw out faucets. The old pot comes in handy for making a cup of instant tea or coffee while out at the barn just visiting or waiting for kids to arrive.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 1999)

ALGAE IN DRINKING WATER

Do you have algae in your water tank, especially in the summer? Buy some goldfish and put them in the tank. They will eat algae and also be pretty to look at in the tank. The goats don't seem bothered by their presence and they can grow quite large. Feeding pelleted goldfish food is optional.

-----By Dr. Kay Orlando, DVM (Reprinted from WPGC Newsletter, March/April 1999)